Moussaka (Traditional Greek Eggplant Casserole)
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Layers of grilled eggplant swimming in meat sauce and topped with a creamy layer of bechamel sauce create a memorable Moussaka.
I didn’t have much interaction with eggplant when I was growing up. Now and then my mom served it as a side dish. She peeled away the deep purple skin and sliced the light green orbs. She topped the disks with a bit of mayonnaise and a sprinkling of parmesan cheese from a can and baked them in the oven. My brother and I didn’t eat it though I remember after tasting it, I didn’t find it repulsive. In accordance with general kid principles, eggplant landed on our “don’t eat” list.
When I met my husband and we first traveled to his father’s native island of Corfu, I was surprised by the large vegetable gardens that were thriving in so many yards. On closer inspection, I was equally surprised to find how little variety there was in the plethora of plants. Red, ripe tomatoes hung from dozens of plants, green peppers dangled, cucumbers climbed and rows of aubergine (as eggplant is more commonly known outside the United States) lined the yard.
In Greece, eggplant is often roasted or baked into casseroles. I’ve always considered the vegetable quite amiable, happily taking on and complementing the flavors around it. Once I was served a hot ceramic dish filled with eggplant, tomato, olive oil and feta cheese baked into a bubbling dream. I’m still working to recreate the experience in my own kitchen. The formula seems simple but there was something particular about that feta topped masterpiece that I haven’t yet mastered.
Moussaka is a well known, traditional Greek dish. Like all national specialities, there are many different versions depending on the region its made and the chef that prepares it. This recipe is one that I have perfected based on my own preferences. Some restaurants layer potatoes in with the eggplant. Once I was told that was done to save money and extend the food. Whether that is entirely true or not, I have frowned upon it ever since. Though I love cinnamon, I don’t care for it in my baked Greek food. I grate a touch of nutmeg into the bechamel sauce and let parsley and Greek oregano do the work of flavoring the meat sauce.
A common pitfall when making moussaka is cutting into your finished casserole to find a runny mess. It is important that the eggplant is properly prepared before layering it between the sauces. Follow the instructions to “sweat” the slices with salt. When they are ready, you will see droplets of moisture on the outside. Then, they must be cooked. Many fry the slices in batches but I prefer to grill them until they are properly shriveled and lined with flavorful grill marks.
Also, be sure your meat sauce is not too wet. Unlike pasticcio or lasagna, there is not a layer of pasta to help soak up wetter sauce. Cook the sauce down until it is mostly crumbled meat. The eggs and bread crumbs will help thicken it a bit after it’s done cooking.
My final tip for making Greek moussaka is to do the best you can to procure high quality ingredients. It will be make the difference between a good moussaka and an amazing, authentic, your-friends-never-tasted-anyting-like-it moussaka. Dried Greek oregano tastes different than store bought dried oregano. If you can get your hands on some kefalotiri cheese, it will make all the difference in the bechamel sauce. This past year, I have also come to discover how much better freshly grated nutmeg tastes. Quality beef, organic milk, fresh and firm eggplant… the better the ingredients going in, the better the result coming out.
Indeed, making moussaka is a bit of an endeavor. It is a nice activity for a Sunday. You can also make it ahead and bake 3/4 of the way. Pop it in the oven to warm it and brown the top while guests gather. Like many baked dishes, leftovers are delicious if not better. Kali Orexi!
Note: A number of people of asked why I don’t use ground lamb like traditional Moussaka. You may certainly substitute ground lamb. On Corfu, where my in-laws are from, it is common to find ground beef in the baked eggplant dish. Like most cuisines, there are regional twists on traditional favorites.
Moussaka – Traditional Greek Eggplant Casserole
Description
Layers of eggplant, or aubergine, soak in the flavors of the meat sauce. Topped with a cheesy bechamel, this traditional Greek recipe is a bit time consuming but worth the effort.
Ingredients
2 1/2 lbs. medium size aubergines (eggplant)
1 medium onion, chopped
1/4 cup butter
1 1/2 lbs ground beef
1/2 cup white wine
3 peeled and chopped tomatoes or 1 can (1 lb.)
3 tablespoons chopped, fresh parsley
2 teaspoons dried Greek oregano
Salt and pepper
3 + 2 heaping tablespoons toasted bread crumbs
2 egg whites, slightly beaten
Olive oil for brushing aubergine
For the bechamel sauce:
4 tablespoons butter
6 tablespoons flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
dash of nutmeg
2 cups milk
2 egg yolks + 1 egg
1 cup grated kefalotiri cheese (substitutes: asiago or parmesan reggiano)
Instructions
Wash aubergines and keep skin on. Cut aubergines in slices 1/2 inch thick. Sprinkle them with salt and set aside for an hour to “sweat.”
Saute onion with butter until soft. Add the ground beef and cook, stirring to break up the meat. Cook until browned.
Add wine, tomatoes, parsley, oregano, salt, and pepper. Simmer covered for about 45 minutes. (You can work on the bechamel sauce, see below)
Remove from heat and add 3 tablespoons toasted bread crumbs. Let cool about 10 minutes and stir in the egg whites. You don’t want the eggs to cook, be careful the sauce isn’t too hot.
For the bechamel sauce:
Melt butter over low heat in a sauce pan.
Add flour. Stir with a whisk until well blended and cook for a few minutes until bubbling.
Gradually whisk in milk. Cook, stirring constantly, until thick and smooth.
Stir in salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Taste and adjust as needed.
Turn off the heat. In a bowl, lightly beat egg yolks and the full egg. Gradually stir the eggs into the sauce. Stir in 2/3 cup of the grated cheese reserving the rest.
To assemble the moussaka and cook it:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Rinse and wipe dry the aubergine slices. They must be cooked before layering them in the casserole. To grill them, brush each side with olive oil and grill on a 350 degree grill for about 5 minutes on each side until you see grill marks and they have shrunk or become less hydrated. To cook in a skillet, cover the bottom of the pan with olive oil and fry the slices for a few minutes on each side in batches. Lay them on a plate lined with paper towel.
Grease an oven proof 9 x 13 inch dish. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons bread crumbs on the bottom of the dish and cover the bottom with half the aubergine slices. Spread the meat sauce mixture on top. Cover with the rest of the aubergine. Pour the bechamel sauce evenly over the top. Sprinkle the remaining 1/3 cup cheese over the top.
Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes or until the top is golden brown.
Serve warm. If you want to make ahead, you can bake it 2/3 of the way and the finish it in the oven before eat.
Store leftovers in the refrigerator for up to 3 days and reheat before serving.
one of the first things i ever learned to make – but the vegetarian version from Moosewood Cookbooks
Hello there! Greetings from Athens, Greece!!! I ll try your version. Kalo vradi!!!!
Try it with fresh ground lamb (or leftover roast leg of lamb) instead of beef for a more traditional taste.
We are a house full of eggplant lovers! I don’t know why I haven’t tried making moussaka but I certainly will remedy that oversight soon, as your recipe is tempting! It would be a great make ahead and bake off in the evening dinner.
What a perfect way to use up the garden eggplant. I used to make this all the time put retired my recipe. I will have to give this a try with the next batch of eggplant.
This recipe looks great – I love Moussaka and am always on the look out for authentic recipes. I spent many childhood holidays in Nisakki on on the North East coast of Cofu and have returned many times since; your description of the vegetable gardens there take me right back.
Very interesting to see you put the breadcrumbs and egg white into the meat sauce – I think this is where I’ve been going wrong as I always end with a finished dish that is too watery.
Thanks again for your post.
looks delicious! I’ve never made it with eggplant since the Romanian moussaka is made with potatoes and also growing up I was not a fan of eggplant. I still don’t use it much in cooking, besides hiding it in vegetable stew, but I was debating giving the poor eggplant another chance and trying to reproduce the delicious eggplant caponata from the Purple Pig. Maybe I’ll slowly cook my way up to an eggplant moussaka :-)
Thank you so much for sharing this recipe. My house smelled wonderful while this was in the oven. It was totally worth the work. Everyone loved it!
Great recipe. I live in northern Canada, so I used wild game. It was d-e-licious.
What can I say but lamb, lamb, lamb. Moussaka is made with ground or chopped lamb! It’s completely different!
I made this yesterday, using fried potatoes as a bottom layer, and mostly coconut oil as a cheaper substitute for olive oil, drizzling some good olive oil on top. I fried the eggplant until pliable, layered and mashed everything down before adding and extra-large amount of bechamel and baking. It turned out solid (not watery) and amazing! Oh, I did use extra eggs and egg yolks because I had them, and eggs were cheaper (per gram protein) than milk and I knew the extra yolks would add richness!
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Excellent recipe! One of my guests said it was “restaurant quality “. I’ve made other recipes but they were ruined by being too watery. This version with the full hour to sweat the eggplant and the cautionary note regarding the meat sauce plus the toasted bread crumbs fixed that. My bechamel set up beautifully and I was able to get authentic kefitiri cheese from a Greek bakery/market. As mentioned it is a lot of work but worth it!
A fantastic recipe! When I served to my book club one guest said it was “restaurant quality “. One tiny thing is the instructions forgot to include adding the dried oregano in the meat sauce when you add the parsley and salt and pepper but it was listed in ingredients and I knew it went in to simmer for 45 minutes.
The first recipe I made from a cookbook was a runny diluted mess. This bechamel sits up so nicely. I think the admonition to ensure a dry meat sauce and those breadcrumbs were the key!
Jennifer – I LOVED reading your comment and thank you for the catch on the recipe. I’ve updated it!
The star rating on my review should have been five. I am not sure how I goofed on that but this my go to for moussaka
Hooray! So glad you use the recipe and enjoy it. Thanks for the 5-star review Jennifer.